New (To Me) Powermatic 60 8″ Jointer

I’ve been looking for a larger jointer for some time now. Craigslist always seems to have a pandora’s box of old and new craftsman 4″ and 6″ models, but what I was really looking for was some high quality, American made, cast iron. 2 weeks ago I finally found what I was looking for… a Powermatic Model 60 8″ jointer with a 64″ bed. The guy selling it was from Chicago, but willing to drive it up to Madison to deliver it. Overall the machine is in good condition; the tables are flat and nearly co-planar, no major rust, and it came with 2 sets of carbide blades, freshly sharpened.

The Good…

The tables are in very good shape. Most importantly they are flat and mostly co-planar. There were a few small rust spots which were easily removed by a light scraping with a straight razor and sanding with some 80 grit paper. A coat of paste wax finished them off.

The Bad…

Cutter Head Bearings

The cutter head was difficult to turn by hand, and even stalled the motor when I tried to run it, blowing the circuit breaker. I removed the cutter head and found that the non-drive side cutter head bearing was so full of dust and dried out grease that it barely moved. The drive side bearing spun more freely, but was pretty well dried out as well. Fortunately after a good cleaning and new grease they were good to go. If you would rather just replace the bearings with new ones (if I were doing this again that would be my choice) these are the ones you’ll need. While you’re at it, I’d recommend replacing the belts too. Belts always seem to break right after you’ve fixed something else.

Drive pulley side cutter head bearing: 6204-2RS sealed bearing 20 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm Wide
Non-drive side cutter head bearing: R12-2RS sealed ball bearing 3/4″ ID x 1-5/8″ OD x 7/16 Wide
Belts: 4L540 V belt(2x)

Removing The Bearings

The first step to repacking the bearings was to remove the cutter head from the jointer. Before you do anything however, unplug the jointer and remove the drive belts.

There are two bolts holding the cutter head in place, loosen both of them until they drop down onto the cabinet. There’s no need to remove them completely unless they’re stripped or damaged. One of them was stripped on my machine and needed to be replaced, they are 5/16-18 x 5″ hex head bolts. Fortunately the bearing block threads were fine.

When removing the cutter head, be aware that the blocks surrounding the bearings may be loose. I found that the leftmost block (opposite the pulley side) came off very easily, if you’re not careful you could drop the cutter head accidentally and damage the blades or tables (or yourself). I found it easier to remove the cutter head with the in-feed table lowered about 1/2″.

Removing the bearings and bearing blocks was straight forward using a gear puller and an open ended wrench. Again, be careful not to hit the blades. I wrapped an old tshirt around them to provide some protection, but you still need to take care.

Repacking The Bearings

Repacking the bearings was actually much easier than I expected. First, I used an old utility blade (the duller the better) to pry the seals out, working my way around and removing them carefully. Do your best not to apply pressure with the sharp side of the blade, and work your way around using the blade as a lever to pry out the seal. Spraying with WD-40 helps.

Once the seals are out you can get a good look at the inside of the bearings. The grease in mine had turned black  and was mostly dried out. I soaked the bearings and seals in mineral spirits for an hour, periodically swirling them around. The old grease just dissolved off of the bearings. If it wont come off or you’re impatient, a toothbrush will work well to remove the dirt and old grease. Just be sure to clean it well before returning it to your significant other. You want to get every last bit of old grease and dirt out, take your time here.

Once all the old grease is removed, dry out the bearing with some paper towel and give it a good hour or two to let all the mineral spirits evaporate. Once you repack it you don’t want the grease dissolving again and running out. I used a non-moly high temperature wheel bearing grease, the same stuff I use to grease the various joints and bearings on my truck. Just put some of it on your hand and force it into the bearing. No need to be super careful here, just get it worked into the bearing. I packed it into both sides of the bearings which turned out to be too much. When I fired it up the first time grease started coming out and getting on the tables. I would suggest only packing it in from one side. Once the bearing is full (or half full) of new grease, simply press the seals back into place and clean up any excess grease. Just don’t use any solvents now, you don’t want your grease dissolving and coming back out.

After your bearings are repacked, press them back onto the cutter head and reinstall it onto the jointer. Make sure everything is snug and the cutter head rotates freely and re-install the belts.

I was going to take a video of the jointer running before repacking the bearings, but it was squealing so badly (and eventually tripped the circuit breaker) that I decided against running it any longer. Here is a video immediately after re-assembling the cutter head into the jointer. It is much smoother and quieter now. (Notice that little bit of grease that was flung out of the bearings? I probably over-packed them a bit :))


Drive Belts

The belts were in poor condition although still serviceable. Since the machine sat unused for the last decade or two, they were not only dried out and starting to fray, but they were permanently deformed from being under tension in the same position all that time. Fortunately replacement belts are only $7 each on Amazon (I used 2 of the Dayton 4L540 belts, but any 4L540 V belt should work fine, and remember you need two). I tried a couple of auto parts stores as well, but they wanted $15-20 each. No thanks.

For reference, these are the part numbers for the bearings and belts if you are replacing them. For the bearings pay close attention to the sizes and make sure you’re buying sealed bearings, not shielded or open bearings.

Drive side cutter head bearing: 6204-2RS sealed bearing 20 mm ID x 47 mm OD x 14 mm Wide
Non-drive side cutter head bearing: R12-2RS sealed ball bearing 3/4″ ID x 1-5/8″ OD x 7/16 Wide
Belts: 4L540 V belt(2x)

Manual has manuals for my jointer, which I found to be very helpful in tracking down part numbers and figuring out how to get everything apart. Dis-assembly turned out to be very simple, but it was still nice to have an exploded drawing to reference.

I’ll be updating this page with more info on taking apart the cutter head and repacking the bearings, as well as my other repairs and improvements. Stay tuned.

[UPDATE] I ended up shimming the jointer outfeed table to make the infeed and outfeed tables co-planar, see here for the write-up.

9 thoughts on “New (To Me) Powermatic 60 8″ Jointer

  1. Pingback: A Poor Man's Guide to Leveling Jointer Tables | David Wahl

  2. Hi,
    I am so glad to run across your post.

    I am a part-time woodshop teacher. (I teach Biology the rest of the time.) My school shop’s Powermatic Model 60 Jointer just started tripping the magnetic switch the last week or two. A quick look showed that the belts are pretty worn and and loose and motor is bouncing around. I haven’t had time yet to check the status of the cutter head bearings, but no screeching noise. It may be the switch, the motor or belts and motor bouncing around causing re-set button and/or circuit breaker to trip. I am going to start with removing and replacing the belts (since they need to be replaced anyway) and properly tensioning them and tightening down the motor and its mounting plate. I will check the cutterhead bearings while I am it.

    I didn’t find the belts available on the WMH (jet/powermatic) or eparts sites so I am glad to know I can probably just get them from Amazon or an autoparts store and will grease or get new bearings if necessary.

    Thanks for the information and for your post.

    Larry Thibault

  3. Glad it was helpful and happy to hear that there are still woodshop classes out there, seems like they’re disappearing. Personally if I had to do this again I would just replace the bearings since you never know what condition they’re in, but it was somewhat satisfying to rehab the old ones.

      • Steve, The motor will operate at the same speed, with the same power. It will just draw more amps. You my want to have a dedicated circuit. If you will be running multiple things at once.

  4. Just picked up a Powermatic Model 60. Old greenie with racing stripe. Basically it is a sound compete unit. But it could use a paint job and a few original handles. Is there a source for the paint or paint color codes and fence adjustment handles? Also anyone know it there was a factory dust port shroud to attach a dust collection hose.


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